Back in the days when I was still “illegal” in Costa Rica, I used to periodically endure the so-called (and dreaded by some) border run.
What’s a “border run” you ask?
Well, when your status is what we call, “perpetual tourist”, you’re required to leave the country every three months for seventy-two hours. So, off I’d go…usually making a b-line to Nicaragua – Costa Rica neighbor to the north.
Well, it isn’t really all the bad to have to take a little mini-vacation every three months, especially to a place as beautiful as Nicaragua. Nicaragua definitely has a different “look and feel” than does Costa Rica. It’s much poorer than Costa Rica. Despite its bounty of natural beauty, the country has not been able to utilize those resources to ignite a tourism boom as has Costa Rica.
Why?
I believe the problem is partially perception. After years of war and strife, the country doesn’t have the best reputation among folks in the U.S. Well, I can tell you that I always thoroughly enjoyed my visits. The people and culture are as authentic and down to earth as anywhere I’ve traveled to. And the land of lakes and volcanoes, is, to put it mildly, just gorgeous.
I would always cross the border at Peñas Blancas, in the northwestern corner of Costa Rica. My first stop usually would be San Juan del Sur, a lovely little beachfront community only about an hour and a half from the border. It’s a great place to relax at one of the many restaurants right along the ocean’s edge, eat a fresh pescado entero (whole fried fish) and toss back a few Victorias (Nicaragua’s best beer).
The next stop would be Ometepe, an hourglass shaped island in Lake Nicaragua formed by two volcanoes that are joined by a narrow isthmus. One of the volcanoes, Concepción, is active and resembles very much Arenal in Costa Rica (it has almost the identical altitude). The other is named Maderas and is inactive and covered with lush jungle. There is a great resort on the island named Villas Paraiso where you can stay in a bungalow and catch the cool breeze blowing off the lake.
Lake Nicaragua (or Cocibolca as the Indians named it) is the largest lake in Central America and the 21st largest in the world and is truly a marvel of nature. The water is the perfect temperature for swimming. However, watch out for the sharks, yes sharks! Lake Nicaragua is unique in that it is a fresh water body of water inhabited by sharks. They’re “bull sharks” that have over thousands of years adapted to the fresh water.
From Ometepe I would usually move on the Granada. Granada is one of Nicaragua’s colonial cities and is steeped with history. It reminds me a bit of Charleston, South Carolina with its pastel colored buildings and houses. It is right on the lake and one of my favorite things to do is hire a local to take me out on a small boat (or panga) to the “isletas”, which are a group of small islands, formed by the eruption of the overlooking Mombacho Volcano, where some of the Nicaraguan rich and famous have purchased entire islands to construct their getaways.
One of the isletas is known as “monkey island” and is inhabited by a family of spider monkeys, who are quite friendly and not a bit afraid of humans.
Granada is well developed touristically and there are many great places to stay and superb dining is in ample supply. Check out our Nicaragua hotels page for some ideas.
That’s usually the route that would take just the right amount of time before heading back south to my Costa Rican home. There are other great places to visit as well, such as the Masaya Volcano (one of Nicaragua’s most active), the Mercardo de Artesanias (or craft market in downtown Masaya), Leon (the other important colonial city), and even the capital city of Managua.
And if you feel really adventurous hop a domestic charter over to the Corn Islands, which are two pristine islands (Big Corn and Little Corn) with crystal clear waters just off the Caribbean coast.
Nicaragua is a fun place to visit and the people, once you get to know them, are as down to earth, humble and selfless as you will find anywhere.
Check out our Costa Rica – Nicaragua combo package. We can also custom design Nicaragua only trips.
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